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Evinrude 3 HP 1962

Evinrude 3 HP

 

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That motor's 7 years old!!
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EPA made me do it!
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Small Motor Tune-Up Page 2

THE MOTOR BEFORE TUNE UP
THE MOTOR AS I RECEIVED IT

(Click for full-size)

PARTS USED TO FIX THIS UP!
NEW PARTS TO INSTALL
(1) 172522 IGNITION TUNE KIT
(2) 584477 COILS & WIRES
(2) NGK B6S SPARK PLUGS
(1) 439071 CARB KIT
(1) 203130 HEAD GASKET
(1) 434424 WATER PUMP IMPELLER

You can order these as a kit for $170.00
by clicking on the cart icon below
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MASTERTECH DEMONSTRATES HOW TO TUNE UP AN OLDER SMALL MOTOR.

On this second page we will go through rebuilding the carburetor, replacing the head gasket and water pump impeller.

Complete procedure continuing a major tune up on a small motor, in this case a 1962 Evinrude 3 HP. Just drop in here? GO TO PAGE ONE showing the initial setup and the magneto overhaul.

This particular model was built essentially unchanged from 1951 through 1967 and as a 4 HP up into the 90's. You couldn't ask for a better trolling motor. Where do YOU get one? E-bay and other auction sites have motors up for sale all the time. Yard sales, flea markets, even your local dealer may be happy to sell you an older motor they don't think is worth repairing. Use good judgment, don't buy a motor that is worn out! Generally the nicer looking ones are in good shape.

These are the components we are using to get this little jewel into perfect condition. All these parts will cost you just a little over $125.00. The entire project should only take you a Sunday afternoon, and will reward you with a motor that runs better than new.

Most of the small pictures are active links to full size photos to help you along. Just click to look, they will open in a new browser window. Feel free to print out any of this info FOR YOUR OWN USE ONLY!!

NEED MORE INFO?

SMALL CARBURETOR REFERENCE VIEW

3HP GEARCASE AND WATERPUMP REFERENCE VIEW

SHIFTING MODELS TYPICAL GEARCASE AND PUMP

SECURE QUICK ORDER FORM


GOT A DIFFERENT MOTOR?
TUNE KITS FOR OTHER OMC MOTORS
TUNE UP KITS 2 - 90 HP

 

VARNISH IN A CARBURETOR BOWL I have found the use of OMC Engine Tuner will clean the carburetor without exposing you to caustics, has no unpleasant odor and it rinses away with water. Similar products are available from other manufacturers. Just put the carburetor in an old pan or suitable container and immerse for a short time to remove all the deposits and rinse with water, blow out with compressed air.
The carburetor should be upgraded with a kit even if it is clean. Today's gasoline additives will destroy the cork float, rubber float valve tip, bowl gasket and center standpipe seal in a short time. If your motor has rubber fuel lines and a fuel pump these should be replaced with modern components as well. Disassemble as far as practicable. If the center standpipe won't come out that's cool. Just be sure to blow it clear. CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLED, OLD PARTS IN REAR.
CALIBRATION POCKET LOCATION The pen points to the low speed fuel calibration pocket. This area is where the fuel and air mixture is controlled by the needle valve. Small holes are drilled into the carburetor venture under here. I recommend you remove this soft plug by using a small punch or screwdriver to puncture thru the soft aluminum and twist to remove. Blow it out to remove any crud that may have accumulated. A replacement plug is in the carb kit. Install it in the cavity convex side up and tap it in the center to flatten and seal securely in the hole.
A proper float adjustment is critical to good performance. You must bend the metal float tang (do not press down on the float valve) until the float is parallel with the body casting as shown here. All older OMC carb float levels are set in similar fashion. PROPER FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT
COMPLETED CARBURETOR Here the carburetor is all ready to replace on the motor. Be sure to install the seal on the center standpipe in the middle of the carb body. Tighten the bowl attach screws evenly and snug. The bowl gasket is thick and if you get carried away you could break the bowl. Basic adjustments for just about all older John-Rudes is 1 1/2 turns off seat for the low and 3/4 for the high speed needle valves.
After a thorough cleaning of the entire exterior to remove 40 years of accumulated dust and dirt, the carburetor was reinstalled on the motor. The next item on the agenda is the head gasket. All older motors should have this replaced for a couple of reasons. First is the materials that the older gaskets are made of is inferior to the newer. Second, you need to examine the cylinders and clean out the carbon accumulation from the combustion chamber and exhaust ports. While the head is off, clean out any scale and debris in the water jacket as well as the carbon from the piston tops and the head. Use a soft brass brush or a putty knife with the corner rounded off. Avoid scratching the pistons. CARBURETOR REASSEMBLED TO MOTOR
The cylinder head on most of these little engines gets warped and needs to be surfaced. In order to get the head flat, take a sheet of 80 grit wet or dry sandpaper and place it on a flat surface. A piece of plate glass or a plastic cutting board are good choices. Using a little water and a figure 8 pattern work the head on the paper until it is showing clean metal all across the face. Just so it touches, you don't have to grind out every little flaw. Do the same to the block face with a mill file to get any residual gasket material off and a good mating surface.

BEFORE:

HEAD AND PISTONS BEFORE CLEANING
AFTER:

AFTER CLEANING
 
TORQUING THE HEAD BOLTS IS IMPORTANT Reinstall the head to the motor. I use OMC gasket sealing compound on all the bolts and around the water jacket to help seal the cooling system. DO NOT put it on the area where the gasket seals to the cylinders. New head gaskets are treated with a thermal sealer and need no additional compounds. DO NOT use spray gasket sealers, Permatex, etc. on this surface. It is also important to properly torque these bolts, starting from the center out in a circular pattern. Do tighten the bolts in several stages to the proper torque for the motor you are working on.

GO TO PAGE THREE
to continue with the water pump impeller replacement and see the results of your labor.

CAUTION!    I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you obtain an OEM model-specific service manual to help you. We have most available RIGHT HERE at Mastertech.

 
 

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We pay the freight out in USA on all orders over $100.00. Orders less than this amount will have a shipping and handling charge of $8.75 added. Some bulky and heavy items will incur additional charges. You will be notified beforehand if this is the case. Remember, all orders receive free technical support from the MasterTech!

 
 

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DISCLAIMER

The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors. Changes are periodically added to the information herein. Mastertech may make improvements to this site at any time. Parts ordered from this website may or may not be in dealer stock at the time of order. Thank you for reading.