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A Fun Old Porcelain Sign and Ancient Tools

Sign Reads "Wanted: Good Woman Must Be Able To Clean, Cook, Sew,  Dig Worms, and Clean Fish.  Must Have Boat and Motor. Please Send Picture of Boat and Motor."

 

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Bill the Master Tech

 

If your Mfgr. says:

That motor's 7 years old!!
Part is no longer available.
We lose $$ on service!
EPA made me do it!
Part's at central warehouse, you'll get it next month.
We don't make parts for those.
We only do warranty work.
Our techs only fix late models.
No clue what's wrong! So we'll work time & material.

 

 

Baloney!!

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MASTERTECH'S Gearcase Tips

SERVICE TIP: Are you suspicious that your gearcase is leaking because you see black oil "leaking" around the propeller or collecting on the garage floor under the lower unit? Relax, because 9 times out of 10 what you're seeing is simply the residual lubricating oil running down out of the exhaust housing. When the motor is running, the unburned oil (95% of it) gets mixed with the cooling water discharged into the midsection's exhaust tube. Here it collects as a foamy emulsion, especially if the motor was used for extended period at low speed. After you put it up, the water evaporates, leaving the oil to run down and out the weep holes and the exhaust hub.

Best check first that the oil IN the gear housing is O.K. Simply crack the lower screw and let a little out. It should be light to medium brown in color, and at least translucent.. Lighter, opaque and creamy colored indicates water intrusion. Inky black & burnt odor - - it's past due for a change. 100 % water, bubbly grey-black gleep, under pressure, metallic colors, bad odors: all indicate serious problems. Unsure? Contact the Mastertech! At any rate, change the oil every 50 running hours using a high quality lube such as Evinrude-Johnson Ultra HPF or Mercury Premium Gear Lube and you shouldn't have any problems. It should be filled from the bottom until it reaches the vent hole above. Plug the vent hole back up to create an airlock, which lets you remove the fill device and replace the drain plug (quickly) without losing too much oil.

Operating in fishing waters? Good idea to remove the propeller occasionally and check for monofilament fishline around the propshaft. It'll cut the seals right out and - blooie!

Cooling system and waterpump ills can be alleviated by replacing the pump every so often. Impellers take a set when unused and can shed vanes fast when you operate the outboard after an extended period of storage. I advise that ANY motor which has been idle for more than 1 year have a VISUAL check of the pump. It's real easy to install a new impeller and avoid extensive engine damage caused by an overheat.

Waterpump telltale quit? Check it by blowing air back thru to disloge a small piece of residue blocking the passage. The thermostat should also be checked and replaced every so often, especially in saltwater areas.

 
 

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We pay the freight out in USA on all orders over $100.00. Orders less than this amount will have a shipping and handling charge of $8.75 added. Some bulky and heavy items will incur additional charges. You will be notified beforehand if this is the case. All orders normally ship via USPS. Remember, all orders receive free technical support from the MasterTech!

 
 

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DISCLAIMER

The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors. Changes are periodically added to the information herein. Mastertech may make improvements to this site at any time. Parts ordered from this website may or may not be in dealer stock at the time of order. Thank you for reading.